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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
<head>
<title>AUSTRALIAN WATER DRAGON IN CAPTIVITY</title>
</head>
<body>
<h1>The AUSTRALIAN WATER DRAGON, <em>Intellagama lesueurii</em>, in CAPTIVITY</h1>
<ol>
<li><a href="01index&into.html">Introduction</a></li>
<li><a href="02taxonomy.html">Taxonomy</a></li>
<li><a href="03naturalhistory.html">Natural History</a></li>
<li><a href="04housing.html">Housing Requirements</a></li>
<li><a href="05husbandry.html">General Husbandry</a></li>
<li><a href="06feeding.html">Feeding requirements</a></li>
<li><a href="07handlingandtransport.html">Handling and Transport</a></li>
<li><a href="08healthrequirements.html">Health Requirements</a></li>
<li><a href="09behaviour.html">Behaviour</a></li>
<li><a href="10breeding.html">Breeding</a></li>
<li><a href="11artificialrearing.html">Artificial Rearing</a></li>
<li><a href="Referencesandbibliography.html">References and Bibliography</a></li>
<li><a href="glossary.html">Glossary</a></li>
</ol>
<h1>Artificial Rearing</h1>
<h3>11.1 Incubator Type</h3>
<p>Water Dragon eggs have been incubated in commercial reptile incubators as well as home-made devices that are built using an insulated container (such as an esky or old fridge), heat cord and thermostat (Goulding and Green 2006:30). Another improvised incubation method is to place a vessel containing substrate and eggs on two blocks in the middle of an aquarium with water just above the bottom of the container. Using a controllable aquarium heater, the water is heated to 28ºC which maintains both the temperature and the humidity of the eggs. A marker should be used to record the original depth of the water and this should be topped up to maintain the same depth and prevent too much water being lost to evaporation (Goulding and Green 2006:30). The important factor to consider when incubating eggs is to monitor and control the temperature. Substrate used to successfully hatch Water Dragons include slightly damp sand, damp vermiculite or using the suspension method (Aland 2008:464). A 50/50 blend (by weight) of vermiculite and water is the recommended incubation media used by most breeders. The species has also been incubated in soil kept at room temperature (Longley 1947:29, Harlow and Harlow 1997:17).</p>
<h3>11.2 Incubation Temperature and Humidity</h3>
<p>Nest temperatures recorded by Meek et. al. (2001:26) of wild Water Dragons indicate that incubating eggs have daily temperature fluctuations of between 0.6-2.8ºC and that eggs are subjected to a wide range of temperature over the term of incubation; from as low as 22ºC one day to 32ºC on another. Water Dragon eggs can be hatched under natural ambient temperatures outdoors in soil (Harlow and Harlow 1997:17) as well as within an unheated vivarium which has direct morning sun (Longley 1947:29). Incubating the eggs at room temperature has been recorded by Harlow and Harlow (1997:17) as taking between 85-120 days. Water Dragon eggs can be hatched at between 56-64 days at 20-31ºC (Aland 2008:466) Incubation at 28ºC with a 50/50 mix (by weight) of water and vermiculite (actual humidity is not recorded however should be kept high) is recommended by Goulding and Green (2006:30-1).</p>
<h3>11.3 Desired % Egg Mass Loss</h3>
<p>Not applicable to reptiles.</p>
<h3>11.4 Hatching Temperature and Humidity</h3>
<p>The incubator temperature and humidity do not need to be changed to assist hatching.
Full spectrum UVB lighting should be provided as well as a spotlight at one end of the hatchlings enclosure. A thermo-gradient of 18-20ºC at the cool end and no higher than 32ºC under the spot light should be provided to the hatchlings as soon as they are free from the eggs.</p>
<h3>11.5 Normal Pip to Hatch Interval</h3>
<p>The pip to hatch ratio has not been recorded for Australian Water Dragons.</p>
<h3>11.6 Diet and Feeding Routine</h3>
<p>From hatching, Water Dragons will feed only on live insects of an appropriate size; about one quarter the size of the hatchlings head. As the lizards grow, the size of the insects offered should be increased appropriately. Hatchlings should be fed 4-6 insects every second day and should be separated into smaller groups if they are kept in large groups in order to ensure that all animals receive sufficient food.</p>
<p>Finely diced vegetables (as recommended for adult specimens; see Section 6.2) should be offered twice a week on a dish or shallow bowl. Food should be removed after four hours of being offered. Secondary feed bowls should be used if more than four individuals are being housed together. Pre-made ‘dragon pellets’ formulated for juvenile Agamids are readily eaten and is a great source of nutrition.</p>
<p>Providing a lettuce leaf to hatchlings provides little nutritional benefit to young dragons, however it allows healthy jaw development and is a good source of water. Once a fortnight a feed should be supplemented with vitamin and calcium supplement added. At the Australian Museum a mix of 50/50 vitamin powder and calcium powder is used once a fortnight and is either sprinkled on the food or coated on live insects by shaking them together with the powder in a plastic bag. Small crickets and roaches are usually used to feed young Water Dragons, however small worms, isopods, caterpillars, earwigs and cake crumbs have also been fed to hatchlings (Longley 1947:29).</p>
<h3>11.7 Specific Requirements</h3>
<p>The use of sand instead of newspaper as an enclosure substrate prevents uneaten crickets from hiding beneath the paper. Hatching Water Dragons are vigorous diggers and will excavate numerous depressions over a small area, any heavy furnishings such as rocks and logs should be firmly secured in order to prevent such heavy objects from shifting and crushing the animals.</p>
<img src="Image17.jpg">
<h5><strong>Image 21. Juvenile Eastern Water Dragon, <em>I. l. lesueurii</em>. Photo: Rebekah Hosking.</strong></h5>
<p>Lighting globes or batons used should provide an adequate balance of UVA/UVB radiation in order to provide vitamin D and metabolise calcium for growing lizards. Section 8.4 (page 35) covers metabolic bone disease. Most batons and globes will only emit a beneficial level of UV for 6-12 months so the packaging should be checked and the date of installation should be recorded (Walls 2007:66-7). Temporarily housing young dragons outside under natural sunlight is another way to provide adequate UV exposure. Mesh enclosures and small aviaries can be used to contain the lizards for a few hours a week. A water bowl and shaded refuge should be provided at all times in order to prevent dehydration and overheating.</p>
<h3>11.8 Data Recording</h3>
<p>Accurate record keeping is an important part of captive animal management, particularly during the early stages of an animal’s life. The following data should be recorded as much as possible in order to establish trends and improve husbandry.</p>
<ul>
<li>Incubation time and temperature.</li>
<li> Number of eggs as well as the mass and length of each.</li>
<li>Pip to hatch interval.</li>
<li>Mass, Total Length (TL) and Snout Vent Length (SVL) of hatchlings</li>
<li>Growth data.</li>
<li>Food offered and taken.</li>
<li>Behavioural notes.</li>
</ul>
<h3>11.9 Identification Methods</h3>
<p>Hatchling Water Dragons look very similar when young and are therefore hard to tell apart. Hatchling dragons are generally too young to implant with a microchip identifier, however images can be taken of each animal and the distinctive features of each animal can be recorded. This information should be sufficient to distinguish each animal from the rest.</p>
<h3>11.10 Hygiene</h3>
<p>If newspaper is used it should be replaced daily to prevent faecal build-up. When sand or another form of substrate is used, the soiled section should be removed daily and replaced as needed. Such substrates should be completely changed out between breeding seasons. Uneaten crickets should be removed within 4 hours of being offered. Hatchlings will sit in and foul their water dishes so the dish should be cleaned and refilled every day.</p>
<h3>11.11 Behavioural Considerations</h3>
<p>From hatching, young Water Dragons will regularly be observed digging in substrate and sitting in water bowls. They will signal to each other through head bobs and ‘salutes’. Young Water Dragons will hide behind, beneath and inside furnishings. However by the age of approximately three to six months of age they will increasingly try to stay elevated, especially to sleep. Therefore the young of this species should not be kept in standard fish aquariums unless the hood is completely sealed and will prevent the young animals from escaping. A series of angled branches and elevated shelves should be provided in order for the lizards to express their arboreal habits. Hatchlings that occur as a second clutch should not be housed with the hatchings of the first as there will be a considerable size difference which can lead to the smaller lizards not being able to sufficiently feed. Lightly spraying hatchlings with water can be done on a daily to weekly basis in order to keep the young lizards hydrated as well as an enrichment activity.</p>
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