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3D Printing
Just kinda cool for now. Don't have an immediate use for it unless I can get it to pot the electronics with external wires. "Overmolding" might be the keyword, and it just might work! Need to use up the clear art epoxy resin I already have for now.
Can finally use those old milk jugs for something also useful!
Don't need a full $10K mold, can make it with 3d print resin on the inside enclosed by a aluminum holder. Or just cut out of aluminum.
Notes on sprues, alignment pins, etc. http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/199703/mold_art/molds.htm
Really fast workflow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXWZC6NcaGg&feature=youtu.be
- Compression is done by push pull toggle clamp
- Three part mold is done by http://benchtopmold.com/pricing.php
- Downside of vertical press is not good mixing, but not really necessary at this point. Doesn't have auger bit. However the horizontal press done by Australia precious plastics might work better as it has auger.
$200 with not much assembly either!
Shot size of 1 cubic inch. $1500. https://www.techkits.com/products/model-150a/
Also shot size of 1 cubic inch. $4.5k. https://www.injectionmolder.net/order_items.html
https://holimaker.fr/holipress/, French.
Would like to just use a heated tip or the extruder, but probably won't look that great.
Can make a 3d printed mount for the soldering station on top of it (or just hot glue it down!)
Buy paint stripper that contains methylene chloride (dichloromethane). It will solvent weld both PLA and PETG.
- I already have Weld-On 4, whose MSDS contains the above. And will do acrylic too.
Need a big printer actually for printing the whole mohawk.
Bridging large spans is no problem with a fan! Crazy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdxx186jOLA&feature=youtu.be
Ask Ledgerwood:
- This thing is yuge. 800mm depth and 700mm height I think. Is there space in his room?
| Syntax | $1000 Version | $5000 Version |
|---|---|---|
| Link | CR-10 S5 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdxx186jOLA&feature=youtu.be) | |
| Features | Power loss, filament runout, heated bed |
|
| Additional Upgradable Features | Silent-er motor drivers? Z-axis stabilizer |
|
| Additional Unique Features | CoreXY design (slightly more stable?) | |
| Disadvantages | Only heats up inner 300X300, but can use hot air gun |
Keywords:
- CoreXY, linear rails
- Does it heat up the whole bed, or just part of it?
Recommended upgrades (read comments too) from Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/b68x2d/so_im_thinking_about_getting_a_cr10_s5/
Salmon skin smoothers, use 8 diodes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78fonMoXRuA
- Also make sure the pin-outs match! (might need to reverse some of the leads)
Accessory stabilization rods for less ringing on taller prints.
Buy from eBay so you can return if necessary? Not sure...
Try printing flexible filament first, hmm,
Seems great. Also cheap, $179. Barely any parts needed to upgrade to direct drive, so cheap. Although might want to look into the other kits too. https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-direct-drive/
Has direct drive built in. Also is cheap. https://sovol3d.com/products/sv01-direct-drive-printer
PrusaSlicer and CHEP are both slicers. What is handy is ironing and fuzzy skin.
Brittle, will break.
Bends but doesn't break. Really tough. Should be able to print it on the standard printers too!
Readily absorbs moisture. They recommend warming it in the oven.
Need a direct drive extruder and not bowden (long tube with pusher on the side of the chassis, used on cheaper 3d printers).
- Allows you to not have PTFE tube against hotend
- Allows printing flexible filament easier
https://www.instructables.com/Upgrade-Your-CNC/
- Add fan blades onto collet? Clever!
- Do I need 300W or 500W spindle? Needs 48V power supply and speed controller. Seems only useful for aluminum. At that point, I think I'm ok shipping it out, right?
Great writeup on how Chinese CNC machines fail: https://www.cnc-step.com/infos/diy-hobby-cnc-router-kit/
Thinking of going with this one. Upgrade to 20K rpm motor? https://www.sainsmart.com/products/genmitsu-gs-775m-20000rpm-775-cnc-spindle-motor-noise-suppression-compatible-with-3018-series. Probably not higher power though.
Unfortunately while you CAN machine aluminum with these, they’re certainly not designed to do so. Just take your finger and press it against a bit while it’s in the spindle and you’ll see what I mean. The small amount of deflection is pretty easy to overcome in wood, but since metal has no “give” it’s far more difficult.
You generally have to take extremely fine cuts (think .01mm), and really slow speeds. This is fine if it’s just for a hobby something that time isn’t an issue, but if you’re trying to manufacture multiples of something it’ll be a trial of patience.
Now some things that can be done are an all metal spindle holder, upgrading to a router, linear rails on the X axis, and metal sides. Individually none of these are extremely expensive, but if you do them all your likely to find yourself in the neighborhood of a much larger machine price wise, with a machine that still only does an “ok” job of machining metal.
Enthralled with them right now. Writing down some notes...
- Sparkfun likes this $3500 one: https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2586
- Boarditto is another recent option: https://www.sparkfun.com/news/2586. Seems sleeker and better
- Hackaday poster said a toaster oven is good enough for temperature control. But...maybe not. There are a number of toaster oven controller kits at ~$100. Controleo 3 looks good.
- Want temperature below solder temperature for flux to evaporate without bubbles. Then maintain soldering temperature precisely.
- People recommended a laser cut sheet and squeegee instead of gooping it out with a syringe. Interesting.