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 # NAGEKI 3.33
-Full guide coming soon!
-
+A full size Ongeki controller
 ![render](pic/render.png)
+![real-life](pic/real-life.jpg)
+
+# General Requirements
+ - Access to 3d printer
+ - Soldering tool
+ - x4~5 PLA filament, the brand I used is eSUN PLA+
+ - 22~26 AWG wires
+ - Crimping tool
+ - Access to laser cutter & poster printer & sticker printer
+ - Some CAD knowledge
+ - Some arduino coding knowledge
+ - Ability to DIY stuff up if things doesn't go your way
+
+# Additional resources
+-  [Rhythm Cons Wiki](https://rhythm-cons.wiki/w/Main_Page)
+-  [Cons&Stuff Discord](https://discord.com/invite/fknwz8s) - ping me @Zekamashi#7734 if you're struggling; some resources required are also pinned in `#ongeki` channel in this server
+
+# Table of Contents
+1. [Lever](#lever)
+2. [WAD](#wad)
+3. [Case](#case)
+4. [Buttons and PCB](#buttons-and-pcb)
+5. [Graphics](#graphics)
+6. [Firmwares](#firmwares)
+
+## Lever
+### Toxikmango
+#### Parts required
+| Part                                                                     | Qty |
+|--------------------------------------------------------------------------|-----|
+| Everything listed in https://github.com/toxikmango/Ongeki-Lever*         |     |
+| x2 M8 or 5/16" threaded bolts(75mm) and nuts                             | 2   |
+| silicone tube for threaded bolts, OD ~12                                 | 2   |
+  - *PandAuto pot can be substituted for cheap potentiometer, the one I used is B10k
+  - *Fully threaded bolts can be either hex bolt or studded
+
+#### Print settings
+15-20% infill, 2 infill line multiplier, 3 wall line count, 0.20-0.28mm layer height
+
+#### Assembly
+1. Print out the `base with stoppers.stl` from `/LEVER/toximango/` in this repo. Lever assembly for studded bolt is straightforward, just thread it into `lever.stl` from the original repo.
+If you're using hex threaded bolt then print out the `lever big.stl` and `long nut.stl` instead. Then thread long nut into the end of the bolt, wrap some teflon tape around it and jam it into the `lever big.stl`.
+Might want to add nylock and a nut on where the bottom of the knob would go, but don't put on the knob itself yet, we will do it after mounting everything into the case.
+
+2. Mount potentiometer into the base. If your pot have a "tooth" on it then use soldering iron to melt down small hole into the base so that your pot can mount flat on the surface.
+Use a socket wrench to help tighten it in place
+
+3. Now for the shaft assembly, start by inserting the tension chuck, 2 nuts (one goes into the bottom the chuck, another just to position the bearing) and bearing into the threaded bolt
+    - Sanding tension chuck down to one grid is also recommended
+![lever1](pic/lever/lever-assembly-1.jpg)
+4. Check that the chuck lines up with the clamp    
+![lever2](pic/lever/lever-assembly-2.jpg)
+Add nylock and another nut
+![lever3](pic/lever/lever-assembly-3.jpg)
+Insert the end of the bolt into the base, then add lever, nylock, nut and bearing in respectively   
+The order right now should be:    
+[Hex bolt]---[Nut]---[Nut]---[Bearing]---[Nylock]---[Nut]---[Lever]---[Nylock]---[Nut]---[Bearing]--->
+![lever4](pic/lever/lever-assembly-4.jpg)
+Start torquing everything into place.    
+Spur gear for the potentiometer should be added around this point. If your pot shaft is star-shaped then use ` Spur Gear (12 teeth) knurled.stl` from this repo instead.
+![lever5](pic/lever/lever-assembly-5.jpg)
+5. Stop torquing when the lever stays on the exact center of the base. Tightens the nut at the back of the lever into it.    
+It's highly recommended to cover the end of the shaft with a washer and a nylock too, to lock it in place and keep it from slipping off
+6. Add both clamps into the assembly. Again, you might want to sand the clamp surface down for smoother lever.
+### Abi
+Files are pinned in `#ongeki` channel in Cons&Stuff server    
+I did not use this lever design on my controller because the materials are too difficult to source, 
+but I did upload my own f3d design for coil coupler so that it would fit in controller case, and you can mess 
+with the setting to have its diameter match your coil. 
+
+## WAD
+### Parts required
+| Part                                                                                 | Qty |
+|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|-----|
+| 100g button springs (the same ones used on main/sdvx buttons)                        | 2   |
+| M3 flange nut                                                                        | 2   |
+| M3 spring washer                                                                     | 2   |
+| M4x20~25mm screws                                                                    | 3   |
+| M4 flange nut                                                                        | 3   |
+| IR Optocoupler + breakout board (the sensor mount I made is designed to fit ITR9608) | 1   |
+| WS2812b + something to mount the cables on                                           | 6   |
+
+### Print settings
+- 10% infill, 1 infill line multiplier, 2 wall line count, 0.20 layer height for button face
+- 12% infill, 1 infill line multiplier, 3 wall line count, 0.20 layer height for the rest
+
+### Assembly
+Wire up and mount everything as shown in picture below. If your sensor is not ITR9608 or has different dimension then you might want to model up a
+different 30x20mm mount.    
+I made mount models with different heights to test out button sensitivity. The one I find most accurate is 6mm mount. 
+Feel free to experiment with these heights but according to many source, the button should feel the same as maimai button which is VERY sensitive and activates by just wiggling.    
+You can also add some keyboard tape/thin foam on where the button would make contact with the shield for longevity.
+![WAD1](pic/wad/wad-assembly.jpg)
+
+## Case
+### Parts required
+| Part                        | Qty |
+|-----------------------------|-----|
+| M5*20 mm screws             | 12  |
+| M5 nut                      | 12  |
+| M4*20 mm countersunk screws | ~30 |
+| M3*20 mm countersunk screws | ~16 |
+| M3*10 mm screws             | ~16 |
+| M3*5 mm countersunk screws  | 24  |
+| M3 Nut/ flange nut          | ~16 |
+| M3 Nut                      | 24  |
+| Epoxy glue                  | 80g |
+| Cabinet magnet              | 10  |
+| Big rubber adhesive feet    | ~8  |
+### Print settings
+- 12% infill, 1 infill line multiplier, 3 wall line count, 0.28 layer height
+
+### Assembly
+1. Glue up each side parts with epoxy glue, don't forget to sand down with 80 grit sandpaper before applying glue to make the bond stronger. 
+Get the bottom part laser cut with 2mm acrylic instead if you want to save sanity.    
+2. You should now have 7 big parts; top, wad(left), wad(right), side(north), side(south), bottom. 
+Everything except bottom part can be screwed together with self threading hole. Then mount cabinet magnet onto the bottom part.     
+3. Loosely mount side button and run cable down into the hole. Glue M5 nut on the WAD cover hole and mount it over side button. 
+Make sure the side button backplate doesn't get caught in between and start righting the screws    
+4. Mount lever assembly under the case then insert the knob. Use teflon tape to make the knob tight-fit and start smacking it into place 
+(hold the bottom of the lever while doing so, be careful damaging/breaking the top side!). 
+Make sure that the countersunk screws is flush with the surface to prepare for acrylic cover.
+
+### Notes
+- I also include .dxf files for each side in case you want to get MDF cut instead (not tested)
+- Epoxy glue smells awful. Do this either outdoor or in a well ventilated room
+
+## Graphics
+| Part                    | Qty |
+|-------------------------|-----|
+| M5x20 Round flat screws | 6   |
+| M5 flange Nut           | 6   |
+### Assembly
+#### Acrylic cover:   
+- Laser cut with 4mm clear acrylic
+
+#### Cover graphic:
+- Print it with printing service of your choice, for mine, I ink-jetted it on PP paper
+- Put your acrylic over on top of it and use a pen to trace all the holes
+- Cut every hole out with a knife
+- Neardayo's Faucetwo customization video to get a better picture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpwCRY_63XE
+- Put the printed paper on top of your case, cover it with acrylic and screw it down. Do not tighten it too hard or the acrylic will crack
+
+#### WAD Decal:
+- Print it on vinyl sticker (I went to an Itasha shop to get mine)
+- Before applying sticker don't forget to sand the surface where it would go down to 1000 grit
+
+### Notes
+- You may notice that the top of cover & graphic is 1cm shorter than the case. This is because lots of shop I went to check can only print 30cm wide. 
+Feel free to add 1 cm to the top if your printing service is capable of wider print
+- For top cover you can do reverse UV print instead if you want to go extra
+- Once the cover is mounted onto the case you may find the WAD cover impossible to remove without having to take the cover off first. 
+You can get around by sliding left/right to access side button screws to remove the side button first, then the WAD cover
+
+## Buttons and PCB
+### Parts required
+| Part                      | Qty |
+|---------------------------|-----|
+| 60*60 mm square buttons\* | 6   |
+| 33*33 mm square buttons   | 2   |
+| WS2812b                   | 6   |
+| Arduino Pro Micro         | 1   |
+| 6 pin JST XH              | 8   |
+| 4 pin JST XH              | 4   |
+| 3 pin JST XH              | 1   |
+| 2 pin JST XH              | 2   |
+| M3x10mm screws            | 4   |
+- *if you're using Sanwa make sure lamp holder is the old style
+
+### Assembly
+[Use this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2204192) to mount WS2812b to your 60*60 buttons, use teflon tape to make everything fit snugly. 
+Order the pcb from [JLCPCB](https://jlcpcb.com/) or any pcb printing service of your choice.
+Route connect the first WS2812b DIN to A1 and DOUT to L1OUT, then connect the next WS2812b DIN to L1OUT and DOUT to L2OUT etc. etc.    
+Slide the PCB to 3d printed enclosure, secure it with screws and use double side tape to mount it under the case.
+![pcb1](pic/pcb/pcb-1.jpg)
+![pcb2](pic/pcb/pcb-2.jpg)
+![pcb3](pic/pcb/pcb-3.jpg)
+
+## Firmwares
+There are 3 firmwares that I recommend
+- [skogaby/OngekiCon.ino](https://gist.github.com/skogaby/59331321ba9427996ff1c941a32b05f4) - uses XInput, needs to short RST pin to GND pin everytime you want to re-upload code
+- [ongeki-io](https://github.com/Nana0Nana/ongeki-io) - has hid lighting, looks fancy on song selection
+- [mouse&keyboard](https://github.com/Nana0Nana/NAGEKI/blob/main/nageki2.0%20code/nageki2.0.ino) - use this if you want to play MuDrive
+
+For all of these code I suggest you include `ResponsiveAnalogRead` library to get smoother lever reading.
+```
+...
+#include <ResponsiveAnalogRead.h>
+...
+ResponsiveAnalogRead analog({{LEVER_PIN}}, true);
+...
+```
+
+Make sure the code follows PCB's pin in/out    
+
+| Component              | Pin |
+|------------------------|-----|
+| Left button 1          | 9   |
+| Left button 2          | 8   |
+| Left button 3          | 7   |
+| Right button 1         | 6   |
+| Right button 2         | 5   |
+| Right button 3         | 4   |
+| Left Menu              | 15  |
+| Right Menu             | 10  |
+| Lever                  | A0  |
+| Main buttons LEDs      | A1  |
+| Left side button LEDs  | A2  |
+| Right side button LEDs | A3  |
+
+Your photo interrupter's breakout board may have unobstructed=HIGH configuration.
+In this case you will need to invert side buttons' logic.
+
+# Closing Notes
+- To test how well it plays (especially the wads), try エータ・ベータ・イータ on master difficulty
+- Main buttons spacing are 1mm off from official spec. You are inhuman if you notice the difference between this and official panel
+- Do not use this controller to stream "that" on GDQ