Ultimaker

Quick links: Usage • Troubleshooting • Maintenance

Nickname	Make	Model	Where	Manual	Issue Tracker	Status
"Felicity"	Ultimaker B.V.	2	Workshop	online	Tool: 3D Printer - Ultimaker 2	TBC
"Adam"	Ultimaker B.V.	2 Extended	Workshop	online	Tool: 3D Printer - Ultimaker 2 Extended	TBC

Overview

These machines print physical 3D objects, making them ideal for prototyping product designs.

The machines are good at replicating a design, but printing can take a long time. If you need high volume, consider using resin or injection moulding instead (you can use a 3D-printed object to cast the moulds).

How it works

You design an object using 3D modelling software, then load it in to Cura and export it as a G-code file. The G-code file is then transferred to the 3D printer via an SD card. You select the file (on SD card) to print using the controls on the printer, and then it start printing the physical 3D object. It does this by heating filament (plastic thread) until it melts then spitting small dots (like plastic pixels) iteratively, layer by layer, to build up a 3-dimensional object.

You might need to control the print speed, temperature and several other factors to get the best results.

Specifications

• Build volume:
  • Ultimaker 2: 22.3 cm (W) × 22.3 cm (H) × 20.5 cm (D)
  • Ultimaker 2 Extended: 22.3 cm (W) × 22.3 cm (H) × 30.5 cm (D)
• Layer resolution: Up to 20 microns
• Print speed: 30 - 300 mm/s
• Travel speed: 30 - 350 mm/s
• Filament diameter: 2.85 mm recommended
• Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm swappable
• Operating nozzle temperature: 180°C - 260°C
• Operating heated bed temperature: 50°C – 100°C
• Printing technology: Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF)

Using the machine

To use this machine, you'll need to:

• Follow safety precautions
• Design 3D object
• Convert to G-Code
• Set printer filament
• Print the object

Let's get started...

Safety precautions

The machine is generally safe to use, but there is a risk of injury if you start poking around inside the printing chamber.

• Workshop Safety

Step 1: Design 3D object

• We recommend you create this using Cura, which is developed by Ultimaker
• It can import most of the common 3D file formats fairly reliably
• Learn from Ultimaker Tips & Tricks

Step 2: Convert to G-Code

• Load Cura and open (STL file) or import your 3D model
• Get the SD card from the front slot in the Ultimaker, and put it in your computer
  • If your computer doesn't have an SD card slot, use one of the computers in the workshop
• From the menu: File > Print
  • This creates the G-code file
  • Save it to the SD card

Step 3: Set printer filament

• We have spools of several common types of filament in the workshop:
  • We charge based on the length and type of filament used
  • If you've used up a reel of filament, or want more colours, create an issue to let us know so we can order some
• Or, you can buy your own filament and bring it with you to the workshop:
  • Use 2.85mm PLA filament (it's often listed as 3mm on websites)
  • A good supplier is Faberdashery.

Step 4: Print the object

• Put the SD card back in the front slot of the Ultimaker
• Use the dial on the front select your file, then press GO.

Hints & tips

• Filament can come on a coil, rather than a roll, so you will need to roll it up on one of the empty spools before you can use it. Take care not to get everything tangled by looping the coil on a broomstick, and wind it as tightly as you can. Recommended also to stand the spool on a heated bed of the printer for ten-twenty minutes to adapt it the tighter curvature so it doesn't spring loose when you feed it into the machine.
• Cura: You can adjust various setting in Cura (such as the layer height) as well as load multiple STL files into the same build
• Unloading/reloading filament: Follow the instructions on the machine. Make sure you don't put the wrong filament in. It should be 2.85mm thick PLA.

Minimising waste

• Avoid: Don't print useless stuff.
• Reduce: Does a solid object need to be solid inside? Often it doesn't - a hollow object will use up less filament.
• Recycle: Depending on the plastic used, it can go in the recycling bins near the kitchen.
• Disposal: If all else fails, put waste in the workshop bin

It would be nice if we could create a Precious Plastic recycling system.

Troubleshooting

If the advice below doesn't solve the problem, try Ultimaker troubleshooting. If all else fails, please create a new issue to let us know.

The object isn't sticking to the printer base

If your doesn't stick to the printer base panel, usually because it has a small contact area, you can you can spread a dash of pritstick on to help stick it down

Too much threading / printing too thin

You can adjust the speed and temperature of the plastic extrusion while it is running, if you are getting too much threading or the material is too thin.

Maintenance

• If the machine is broken or needs maintenance, create an issue in the issue tracker (link in Troubleshooting above)
  • Label the issue: Tool: 3D Printer - Ultimaker 2 or Tool: 3D Printer - Ultimaker 2 Extended as applicable
  • If broken, add Broken label (this triggers various systems to flag the machine unavailable)
  • If maintenance required, add Maintenance label (the machine is working, but needs TLC)
  • If parts need purchasing, add Shopping label
• Spare parts are kept in a box in the 3D printer supplies cupboard underneath the printers.
• iMakr sell spare parts
• Faberdashery sell printer filament
• We've been recommended to upgrade to an Olsen Block for the UM2; it allows removing the nozzle (for changing or cleaning) without having to remove the entire heater block.

See also

• Wikipedia: 3D Printing
• Tool: 3D Printer - RepRap
• Tool: 3D Printer - UP3 (Rose)
• Tool: 3D Printer - UP3 (Violet)
• Tool: CNC Mill - Proxxon
• Tool: CNC Mill - Arcitype